How to Take Stitching Measurements for a Kameez: A Step-by-Step Guide
The fabric is rarely the problem. When an unstitched suit disappoints, it is almost always the stitching — a shoulder that sits wrong, sleeves an inch too short, a kameez that pulls across the hip. And that comes down to one thing: the numbers you handed your tailor.
This is a step-by-step guide to taking stitching measurements for a kameez properly. Do it once, carefully, and you can reuse the same numbers for every suit you ever buy.
The Golden Rule: Measure a Kameez, Not Your Body
This is the single most useful thing on this page. Do not measure yourself with a tape around your chest. Measure a kameez you already own that fits you perfectly, laid flat on a table.
Why? Because a garment measurement already includes the ease — the extra room a tailor builds in so the suit hangs rather than clings. Body measurements don't. Hand your tailor raw body numbers and you'll get something you can barely move in.
If you genuinely have no kameez that fits, measure your body and add ease — there's a section on that further down.
What You Need
- A soft measuring tape marked in inches (most Pakistani tailors work in inches).
- A kameez that fits you well — washed, not brand new, so shrinkage has already happened.
- A flat table or a bed. Not a sofa — soft surfaces let the fabric sag and every number comes out long.
- Your phone, to write the numbers down as you go.
Smooth the kameez completely flat before you start. A single wrinkle can cost you half an inch.
The Nine Measurements That Matter
1. Shirt length (kameez length)
From the highest point of the shoulder — right where the shoulder seam meets the neck — straight down to the hem. This is the number that most changes how a kameez looks on you, so take it twice.
2. Shoulder width
Straight across the back, from one shoulder seam to the other. If the shoulder seam of your reference kameez sits past your actual shoulder, that's a drop-shoulder style — mention that to your tailor, or the fit will surprise you.
3. Chest
Measure straight across the widest point of the chest, from one side seam to the other. Then double it. A flat measurement of 21 inches means a chest of 42.
4. Waist
The narrowest point, usually a few inches below the armhole. Measure flat, side seam to side seam, and double it.
5. Hip
Measure flat across the widest point below the waist — for most kameez styles this is roughly 7 to 8 inches down from the waist. Double it. This is the measurement people forget, and it's the one that causes pulling.
6. Armhole
From the shoulder seam, curving down and around to the underarm point. Too tight and you can't raise your arm; too loose and the whole kameez looks sloppy.
7. Sleeve length
From the shoulder seam down the outside of the sleeve to the cuff. Say clearly whether you want full, three-quarter or short sleeves — tailors have different defaults.
8. Sleeve opening (cuff)
Straight across the sleeve at the cuff, then double it. A common request in Pakistan is a slightly wider opening for comfort in the heat.
9. Neck depth — front and back
Two separate numbers, measured from the base of the neck straight down. Front and back are almost never the same. Also tell your tailor the neckline shape you want — round, V, boat, square — because depth alone doesn't describe it.
Trouser and Shalwar Measurements
- Length — from the waist straight down to where you want the hem to sit.
- Waist — measure flat and double it. Say whether you want elastic, a drawstring, or both.
- Hip — the widest point, measured flat and doubled.
- Bottom opening — across the ankle hem, doubled. This one number is the difference between a straight trouser, a cigarette pant and a shalwar.
Name the style out loud too: shalwar, straight trouser, cigarette pants and palazzo all take the same four measurements and produce completely different garments.
Ease: Why You Never Stitch to Your Exact Body Size
If you are measuring your body rather than a garment, you must add ease — the breathing room between you and the cloth.
- Relaxed, everyday fit: add roughly 3 to 4 inches to your body chest and hip.
- Fitted: add roughly 2 inches. Less than that and you will not be able to sit comfortably.
- Shrinkage: pure cotton lawn can shrink slightly on the first wash. Add about an inch of extra length to the kameez and the trouser.
When you're unsure, go slightly loose. A tailor can take a seam in. Adding fabric back is much harder.
Five Mistakes That Ruin a Stitch
- Measuring over thick clothes. Wear something thin, or measure the garment instead.
- Measuring a stretched garment. An old kameez that has gone baggy will give you numbers that produce another baggy kameez.
- Forgetting to double the flat measurements. Chest, waist, hip and cuff are all measured flat and doubled. This is the most common error by far.
- Not saying loose or fitted. Your numbers don't carry your intent. Say it in words as well.
- Guessing the neck depth. It is two inches between elegant and uncomfortable. Measure it; don't estimate.
Your Record Sheet
Copy this, fill it in once, and keep it in your phone notes. You will use it for years.
| Measurement | Inches |
|---|---|
| Shirt length | |
| Shoulder width | |
| Chest (doubled) | |
| Waist (doubled) | |
| Hip (doubled) | |
| Armhole | |
| Sleeve length | |
| Sleeve opening (doubled) | |
| Neck depth — front | |
| Neck depth — back | |
| Trouser length | |
| Trouser waist (doubled) | |
| Trouser bottom opening (doubled) | |
| Fit preference (loose / fitted) |
Send Us Your Measurements
Once you have your numbers, you don't need to find a tailor at all. Send them to us through the stitching measurement form and your suit is cut to your measurements rather than a standard size.
Not sure about one of the numbers? Message us before you order — it is far easier to fix a measurement than a finished kameez.
Where to Start
New to buying unstitched online? Start with our full guide to daily outfitters online shopping, which covers fabric quality, what arrives in a 3-piece, and how to judge a listing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I measure my body or a kameez that fits me?
Measure a kameez that already fits you perfectly, laid flat. A garment measurement already includes the ease a tailor builds in; a body measurement does not, so using body numbers directly produces a suit that is far too tight.
How many measurements does a tailor need for a kameez?
Nine: shirt length, shoulder width, chest, waist, hip, armhole, sleeve length, sleeve opening, and neck depth (front and back). A trouser or shalwar needs four more: length, waist, hip and bottom opening.
How much ease should I add to my body measurements?
About 3 to 4 inches for a relaxed everyday fit, or about 2 inches for a fitted one. Add roughly an extra inch of length to allow for shrinkage on pure cotton lawn.
Why do I need to double the chest measurement?
Because you measure the garment flat — across one side only. A flat chest measurement of 21 inches is a full chest of 42 inches. Forgetting to double is the most common measuring mistake there is.
What if I am between two sizes?
Go slightly loose. A tailor can easily take a seam in, but adding fabric back is difficult and often visible.